Thursday, December 8, 2011

Darwin's Ltd.

Where:  148 Mount Auburn Street, Cambridge, MA

Menu:  http://darwinsltd.com/

Drinks:  Excellent cappucinos; good, strong coffee.  They also sell wine and beer, but only with a MA drivers' license or a passport. 

Food:  This has become one of my go to spots.  Should I be pleased or embarassed that they know me now?  I guess I'm both.  This makes the food review a bit harder - I'm biased, and I've had a lot of different items. 

My favorite thing to get there is a breakfast sandwich - especially the Garden (eggs over medium on sourdough or rye, tomato, onion, bell pepper, add avocado).  Fast becoming a Saturday tradition.  Throw in some rosemary potatoes and you're set for an afternoon of college football.  Be sure to tip the counterguys--it's hot and cramped back there, they're working fast, and they're awesome.  That is all.

I also love their vegetarian sandwiches, vegetable curry, and prepared salads (grilled corn and peaches?  don't mind if I do!). 

The soups, however, are hit and miss.  A jalapeno - butternut squash soup was light and flavorful, but a beef stew was inedible (too thin, overly greasy, and oddly flavored). 

Bonus:  The place itself.  There's not a hint of starbucks, it's not stereotypically "coffeehouse," it's not trying to be anything it's not.  It's a place that is very much about place.  What I mean is that this particular place (Darwin's) can only exist in this particular place (Cambridge).  It doesn't feel like equally cool places (Izzy's) in equally cool locations (Asheville, NC) because it's so organic to the area.  Part of the credit goes to the staff.  They're a take no bullshit crowd, but they're smart, funny, and fun.

Extra bonus:  It's a neighborhood market.  Look for craft beer, wine, cheese & crackers, fresh produce, a mind blowing array of baked goods (including gluten free), and my current obsession - Maple Valley Creamery Ice Cream.

Extra, extra bonus: the fresh Darwin's mugs.  I want one...but they're pricey!  Maybe a Christmas present to myself...

That's all for now,

the U.E.

Good

Where:  89 Greenwich Avenue, NYC

Menu:  http://goodrestaurantnyc.com/DinnerPdf.pdf

What:  Reunion dinner with some law school friends

Scene:  Restful, charming, Restoration Hardware by way of a chic flea market, surprisingly spacious for New York

Drinks:  White Heat (a delicious tequila/jalapeno concoction) and a Velvet Gingerbread (an unfortunate cough syrup doppelganger, graciously replaced by a very nice server for another White Heat)

Food:  What's in a name?  In this case, some truths and some white lies.  Overall, the starters and sides were quite good to great; the entrees, not so much.  The dinner had two superstars:  1) a baked goat cheese and tomato cazuela served with grilled sourdough bread.  The acidity and creaminess were perfectly balanced, and the mouthfeel was equal parts light and luxurious.  2) french fries.  Does this surprise you?  It surprised me, but these fries were perfection.  Not too thin, not too thick.  Some skin, but not too much.  Wonderfully salted.  Not a bit greasy.  Served plain, no sauce, the better to savor them. 

Also fine to good:  1) a side of cheddar hush puppies.  I didn't get much cheddar flavor, and they had nothing on Eastern NC hush puppies (which are the undisputed Michael Jordans of hush puppies), but they were fun, nostalgic, and yummy.  2)  Brussels sprouts.  The menu said they were roasted, but they didn't seem it to me.  They were quite soft --with none of the lovely carmelization you get from roasting -- but they were tasty nonetheless.  (A word to the wise:  they were served with an oversweet marmalade that was better avoided.)  3)  Turkey scallopine.  It was slightly too greasy, but well flavored and topped with mizuna and ricotta salata, which was inspired.

But not "Good" was the veal and pork meatballs, which were served with an overpowering pesto and rubbery gnocchi.  Compounding the muddled flavored and poor execution was the presentation - like a drain trap in a kitchen sink.  It was befuddling - vexing, even - because the presentation for the other dishes was much more thoughtful and attractive.

Bonus:  Attentive service; elbow room; light and fluffy foccacia, surprisingly affordable for New York

Overall:  Nothing groundbreaking, but comfort food in a comfortable setting:  I'm in!

Over and out,

the U.E.

Recette

Where:  328 West 12th Street, NYC

Menu:  http://recettenyc.com/dinner.htm

What:  Dinner with a girlfriend

Scene:  A tiny, working class Parisian bistro.  Dimly lit; tiny, close-together tables, bistro chairs.

Drinks:  Champagne, mais oui!  (Note, though, that the wine menu is quite pricey.)

Food:  Believe it or not, the beef carpaccio was near-transcendental.  Generally, I'm not that into the dish - it feels "done" at best, and lazy or dated at worst.  But this was something else entirely.  First, the beef was perfectly sliced.  I can't bear carpaccio that's cut too thin because it makes it seem fibrous and unpleasant.  But, if you cut it too thick then it's mushy ... and also unpleasant.  In my opinion, this was just right - about the same thickness as an inner ring of a medium-sized shallot.  The carpaccio was wrapped around a lovely ball of burrata and topped with micro-basil, watercress, and what they called a "tomato jam."  It looked like tiny caviar suspended in gel, and in my opinion, it was terribly misnamed.  I would call it the Platonic form of the perfect summer tomato.  All together, it was a flavor explosion, and wildly evocative of a dream day in the Tuscan countryside.  (Also on the plate was a porcini puree that neither added to nor detracted from the taste.)

Other strong dishes included:
- a fresh cut spaghetti topped with a lush, velvety tomato sauce, sweet shrimp, and sea urchin
-a side of fall vegetables - perfectly roasted, earthy delights

But.  But.  Other dishes just didn't work.  We tried salt cod fritters (bland, overly breaded) with a lamb ragu (cold, dry, overly chunky) and a baffling curry aioli. 

The jamon serrano was fine, but the plate was a mess - just tangled pork and a smear of mustard.  The jamon went very well with a raisin nut bread which we purloined from the cheese plate.  (We decided not to waste it on the waxy, unpleasant goat cheese and the waxy unpleasant jam it came with.) 

Most curious of all was the foie gras, which was singularly unappetizing.  I didn't know foie could be unappetizing, truly, but this plate was just a heavy, greasy mess.  The foie was unevenly seared and cut too thick, and it was served with hunks of additional grease and the most dry, inedible biscuit I've ever tasted.  It compared unfavorably with hardtack, which is saying something.

Dessert (a deconstructed s'more sundae with an unadvertised hit of jalapeno) was interesting, but ultimately fell flat.

Bonus:  The service from the busboys and second waiters.  (Our main waiter, however, alternated between indifferent, impatient, and absent.  Ugh.)

Overall:  Writing this review surprised me, because it seems that I should have enjoyed the meal more than I did.  After all, several dishes ranged from solid to divine, and I was having bubbles with une amie.  But between the service, the near misses, the flops, and the price tag, I felt like the experience fell flat.

More NYC and Boston to come,

the U.E.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

L'Ancien Hotel Baudy

Where:  Giverny (To get there, take the train from Paris, at the Gare St. Lazare Station, to Vernon.  It's about a 45 minute ride.  In Vernon, exit the train station.  Across, the street, rent a bike from the cafe.  Take a map, buy a croissant at the bakery a block away to eat along the way, and set out for Giverny.  It's about 5 km.)

Menu:  Unnecessary.

What:  Late lunch, after checking out the home and gardens of Claude Monet.

Scene:  Dining al fresco, at wrought iron tables, under giant orange umbrellas.  The umbrellas create a dreamy, glowing semi-haze.  You're surrounded by flowers and French speakers, and it's hard to tell what's more delightful.  You can also wander through the hotel itself, which is full of paintings--ranging from poignant countrysides to funny renditions of the Blues Brothers.  And cows.  But not together. 

The waitresses are scattered, tattooed, inattentive, sweaty, very French...and hopelessly charming.  You'll wait ... a long time ... for your food and drink, but you won't mind.

Drinks:  Start with their signature cocktail.  I can't recall the name, but it involves sparkles and apple flavored liqueur or brandy.  You'll only need one; then, move on to the house rose, by the carafe.  I don't generally drink rose, but when in France in the sunmer, do as the French do. 

Unlike most places in France, they are very generous with their carafes of water--if you can get their attention.

Food:  Dear sweetness.  It was both the best salad and one of the best meals I've ever had in my life.  I never thought a salad would crack the top 20, but there you go.  Even my boyfriend, who is avowedly anti-salad (and soup, which is a tale for another time) couldn't get enough of (my) meal.  I ordered the duck salad.  It was very simple:  mixed greens, perfect duck confit, homegrown tomatoes, cucumbers, roasted potatoes (sliced thin) and a divine vinegarette.  That's all she wrote.  But through some kind of French alchemy, this humble mix was elevated to the sublime.  If I were on death row, and granted one last meal... this would be a serious contender.

I will warn:  I'm not sure everything on the menu is this perfect.  The BF ordered something centered on jamon, and most of it was left when we finished.  But the duck salad...

Bonus:  Check out the hotel's gardens--they're gorgeous.  We spent well over an hour just walking around.  Also, watch the aspiring artists paint behind the hotel.  Not everyone's a Monet, but they're good spirited about it.

Extra Bonus:  As you head back to Vernon, stop at Au Bon Coin.  Sit outside and have a Printemps beer.  Walk across the street to the little bakery.  Buy some macarons and a fruit pastry.  Go back to Au Bon Coin.  Eat the sweets with some rose.  Love your life.

Au revoir,

The U.E.

Samar

Where:  2100 Ross Ave Dallas, TX 75201

Menu:  http://www.samarrestaurant.com/Samar_by_Stephan_Pyles_Lunch_Menu.pdf

What:  Work lunch

Scene:  Eclectic Moroccan.  It's like what would happen if you took an Anthropology store and placed it in Marrakesh.

Drinks:  Chai tea.  It was a work lunch...  I do love their chai though-- not too sweet, not too spicy.  I feel like Goldilocks.  It's just right.

Food:  Please, please.  Please.  Order the Mussels Escabeche.  I'm not going to lie.  I wasn't sure what it was, and I didn't want to order it.  My friend insisted.  But it is a creamy--but not too creamy, sweet, salty taste of heaven.  It was delicious hot, when we got it, and it was delicious cold, when we finished it at the end of the meal.  (We saved it for the end because it was so good.) 

Also delightful:  the carmelized orange and endive salad.  You're responsible for balancing your own bites, but when you hit it, you knock it out of the park. 

The naan and dips were great--try the moutabal with the labne on the exceptional naan.

Less exciting were the tiger prawns and the duck.  I've had the prawns before, at dinner, and really enjoyed them.  The okra strips taste like a perfect late summer day with grandma, the chutney is sunshine on a plate.  But here, the prawns were slightly...off.  I'll try again, but only once more.  The duck itself was wonderful and flavorful, but it was served with a couscous that tasted disconcertingly like artificially flavored Sunny D.

Bonus:  Lunch is surprisingly affordable.

Overall:  I love it, for lunch or dinner.  Word on the street is that 4 people can get a chef's tasting for $120--and I want to go to there.

Namaste,

The U.E.

Editor's Note:  You might be thinking "I don't like Stephen Pyle's.  It's very expensive and not that good."  Look, I agree.  But Samar stands alone, and it stands WELL.

Nonna

Where:  4115 Lomo Alto Drive, Dallas, TX 75219

Menu:  It changes, but:  http://www.nonnadallas.com/images/menu.pdf

What:  Ladies' Night (and the feel is right)

The Scene:  Understated class.  Soft lighting, spare furnishings, warm brick walls, and high ceilings, great acoustics.  A zen by way of Tuscany feel.

The Drinks:  The sommelier is your friend here.  He has fabulous wines at every price, and he's more than happy to walk you through the menu.  We had a good Pinot Nero from Puglia (three bottles, actually!) and an absolutely lovely quartino of Barolo.  Mmmmm....

The Food:  Largely delicious.  We began with a mixed plate:  Crostino, carmelized criminis, porcetta, and burrata.  I want to lay on a bed of burrata. It's a buttery, creamy style of mozzerella that they make in house.  It will rock your socks, promise.  We also had a salad of grilled romaine with avocado, pancetta, and parmigiano.  It was pleasantly salty and creamy, although it could have stood a bit of bite...maybe some pepper? 

Then, we split a white truffle pasta.  The pasta is made in house, and had an unmistakable, delightful, homemade toothsomeness.  Sadly, the chef was a bit timid with the spices.  I think his instincts -- to showcase the fresh truffles -- were fantastic, but it needed salt, pepper, and a bit of nutmeg.  But...BUT.  Then we had the Waygu short ribs.  If short ribs have a Socratic form, it was here.  They were gently falling apart, and perfectly flavored.  Meaty and earthy, but sophisticated.   I would eat them weekly, if my pocketbook allowed.

Bonus:  The service.  Our waiter was charming, knowledgeable, and magically kept everything perfectly filled.  A true delight.

Extra Bonus:  Chef Julian.  He was making the rounds, and he spent some time with our table.  The man knows his food, and his wine, and he's charmingly humble...and talented.

Overall:  This is worth saving up for.

Ciao,

the U.E.

Nosh European Bistro

Where:  4216 Oak Lawn Avenue, Dallas, TX 75219

Menu: http://www.nosheurobistro.com/menu.asp

What:  Dinner with a girlfriend

The Scene:  Mainly middle to late-middle aged couples and foursomes; bad carpet; cute napkins; very loud; something like an airport lounge; a sommelier pushing hundred dollar bottles of wine on a Tuesday night

The Drinks:  We had two bottles of wine: a syrupy pinot noir (Las Perdinas) and a bland Rosso di Montalcino (San Felice)

The Food:  I am SO OVER Pat, the food critic from Texas Monthly.  She has steered me wrong far too many times, and this time, she goes too far.  She gave Nosh a stunning review, so I was very excited to try it...Big mistake.  Sorry, dolls, but this place was the pits.  I wouldn't even recommend it to someone suffering from ageusia.

The escargot fritters tasted like..."fried."  Just like deep fried oil.  If I'm being kind, they taste like hush puppies that were fried in the same oil as popcorn shrimp.  Uck.  We also tried the pates, which were...serviceable.  However, the lavash crackers tasted like raw flour, and the accoutrements (even the cornichons!!) were floppy and bland.  But...it gets worse.

I hate to do this, but we sent the entrees back.  As my dinner companion put it, the "duck confit" tasted like "cafeteria chicken."  It was rubbery, grey, and frankly, inedible.  I didn't bother to try the sides.  We also ordered the pork shoulder, but we got the short ribs.  At least, I think it was short ribs.  It was really more like a salt lick.  But I presume that deer don't really care about the nuances of a dish. 

After sending back the entrees, we were still starving so we ordered the hazelnut financier that Pat raved about ... Sorry, it's a blonde brownie.  Like, the Betty Crocker kind of blonde brownie.  With mocha chocolate chunk Breyers ice cream...

So, now I'm furious, and eating Triscuits.  Because despite the eyepopping tab (MINUS the entrees), I'm still hungry...

Bonus:  We were free to leave...

Overall:  Never again. 

Love and (hopefully) happy stomachs,

the U.E.

Author's Note:  I know that this review seems harsh, but I really, truly have not been so disappointed in...I don't know how long.