Where: Giverny (To get there, take the train from Paris, at the Gare St. Lazare Station, to Vernon. It's about a 45 minute ride. In Vernon, exit the train station. Across, the street, rent a bike from the cafe. Take a map, buy a croissant at the bakery a block away to eat along the way, and set out for Giverny. It's about 5 km.)
Menu: Unnecessary.
What: Late lunch, after checking out the home and gardens of Claude Monet.
Scene: Dining al fresco, at wrought iron tables, under giant orange umbrellas. The umbrellas create a dreamy, glowing semi-haze. You're surrounded by flowers and French speakers, and it's hard to tell what's more delightful. You can also wander through the hotel itself, which is full of paintings--ranging from poignant countrysides to funny renditions of the Blues Brothers. And cows. But not together.
The waitresses are scattered, tattooed, inattentive, sweaty, very French...and hopelessly charming. You'll wait ... a long time ... for your food and drink, but you won't mind.
Drinks: Start with their signature cocktail. I can't recall the name, but it involves sparkles and apple flavored liqueur or brandy. You'll only need one; then, move on to the house rose, by the carafe. I don't generally drink rose, but when in France in the sunmer, do as the French do.
Unlike most places in France, they are very generous with their carafes of water--if you can get their attention.
Food: Dear sweetness. It was both the best salad and one of the best meals I've ever had in my life. I never thought a salad would crack the top 20, but there you go. Even my boyfriend, who is avowedly anti-salad (and soup, which is a tale for another time) couldn't get enough of (my) meal. I ordered the duck salad. It was very simple: mixed greens, perfect duck confit, homegrown tomatoes, cucumbers, roasted potatoes (sliced thin) and a divine vinegarette. That's all she wrote. But through some kind of French alchemy, this humble mix was elevated to the sublime. If I were on death row, and granted one last meal... this would be a serious contender.
I will warn: I'm not sure everything on the menu is this perfect. The BF ordered something centered on jamon, and most of it was left when we finished. But the duck salad...
Bonus: Check out the hotel's gardens--they're gorgeous. We spent well over an hour just walking around. Also, watch the aspiring artists paint behind the hotel. Not everyone's a Monet, but they're good spirited about it.
Extra Bonus: As you head back to Vernon, stop at Au Bon Coin. Sit outside and have a Printemps beer. Walk across the street to the little bakery. Buy some macarons and a fruit pastry. Go back to Au Bon Coin. Eat the sweets with some rose. Love your life.
Au revoir,
The U.E.
No comments:
Post a Comment