Wednesday, November 10, 2010

L'Ancien Hotel Baudy

Where:  Giverny (To get there, take the train from Paris, at the Gare St. Lazare Station, to Vernon.  It's about a 45 minute ride.  In Vernon, exit the train station.  Across, the street, rent a bike from the cafe.  Take a map, buy a croissant at the bakery a block away to eat along the way, and set out for Giverny.  It's about 5 km.)

Menu:  Unnecessary.

What:  Late lunch, after checking out the home and gardens of Claude Monet.

Scene:  Dining al fresco, at wrought iron tables, under giant orange umbrellas.  The umbrellas create a dreamy, glowing semi-haze.  You're surrounded by flowers and French speakers, and it's hard to tell what's more delightful.  You can also wander through the hotel itself, which is full of paintings--ranging from poignant countrysides to funny renditions of the Blues Brothers.  And cows.  But not together. 

The waitresses are scattered, tattooed, inattentive, sweaty, very French...and hopelessly charming.  You'll wait ... a long time ... for your food and drink, but you won't mind.

Drinks:  Start with their signature cocktail.  I can't recall the name, but it involves sparkles and apple flavored liqueur or brandy.  You'll only need one; then, move on to the house rose, by the carafe.  I don't generally drink rose, but when in France in the sunmer, do as the French do. 

Unlike most places in France, they are very generous with their carafes of water--if you can get their attention.

Food:  Dear sweetness.  It was both the best salad and one of the best meals I've ever had in my life.  I never thought a salad would crack the top 20, but there you go.  Even my boyfriend, who is avowedly anti-salad (and soup, which is a tale for another time) couldn't get enough of (my) meal.  I ordered the duck salad.  It was very simple:  mixed greens, perfect duck confit, homegrown tomatoes, cucumbers, roasted potatoes (sliced thin) and a divine vinegarette.  That's all she wrote.  But through some kind of French alchemy, this humble mix was elevated to the sublime.  If I were on death row, and granted one last meal... this would be a serious contender.

I will warn:  I'm not sure everything on the menu is this perfect.  The BF ordered something centered on jamon, and most of it was left when we finished.  But the duck salad...

Bonus:  Check out the hotel's gardens--they're gorgeous.  We spent well over an hour just walking around.  Also, watch the aspiring artists paint behind the hotel.  Not everyone's a Monet, but they're good spirited about it.

Extra Bonus:  As you head back to Vernon, stop at Au Bon Coin.  Sit outside and have a Printemps beer.  Walk across the street to the little bakery.  Buy some macarons and a fruit pastry.  Go back to Au Bon Coin.  Eat the sweets with some rose.  Love your life.

Au revoir,

The U.E.

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