Good

Where:  89 Greenwich Avenue, NYC

Menu:  http://goodrestaurantnyc.com/DinnerPdf.pdf

What:  Reunion dinner with some law school friends

Scene:  Restful, charming, Restoration Hardware by way of a chic flea market, surprisingly spacious for New York

Drinks:  White Heat (a delicious tequila/jalapeno concoction) and a Velvet Gingerbread (an unfortunate cough syrup doppelganger, graciously replaced by a very nice server for another White Heat)

Food:  What's in a name?  In this case, some truths and some white lies.  Overall, the starters and sides were quite good to great; the entrees, not so much.  The dinner had two superstars:  1) a baked goat cheese and tomato cazuela served with grilled sourdough bread.  The acidity and creaminess were perfectly balanced, and the mouthfeel was equal parts light and luxurious.  2) french fries.  Does this surprise you?  It surprised me, but these fries were perfection.  Not too thin, not too thick.  Some skin, but not too much.  Wonderfully salted.  Not a bit greasy.  Served plain, no sauce, the better to savor them. 

Also fine to good:  1) a side of cheddar hush puppies.  I didn't get much cheddar flavor, and they had nothing on Eastern NC hush puppies (which are the undisputed Michael Jordans of hush puppies), but they were fun, nostalgic, and yummy.  2)  Brussels sprouts.  The menu said they were roasted, but they didn't seem it to me.  They were quite soft --with none of the lovely carmelization you get from roasting -- but they were tasty nonetheless.  (A word to the wise:  they were served with an oversweet marmalade that was better avoided.)  3)  Turkey scallopine.  It was slightly too greasy, but well flavored and topped with mizuna and ricotta salata, which was inspired.

But not "Good" was the veal and pork meatballs, which were served with an overpowering pesto and rubbery gnocchi.  Compounding the muddled flavored and poor execution was the presentation - like a drain trap in a kitchen sink.  It was befuddling - vexing, even - because the presentation for the other dishes was much more thoughtful and attractive.

Bonus:  Attentive service; elbow room; light and fluffy foccacia, surprisingly affordable for New York

Overall:  Nothing groundbreaking, but comfort food in a comfortable setting:  I'm in!

Over and out,

the U.E.