Thursday, December 8, 2011

Darwin's Ltd.

Where:  148 Mount Auburn Street, Cambridge, MA

Menu:  http://darwinsltd.com/

Drinks:  Excellent cappucinos; good, strong coffee.  They also sell wine and beer, but only with a MA drivers' license or a passport. 

Food:  This has become one of my go to spots.  Should I be pleased or embarassed that they know me now?  I guess I'm both.  This makes the food review a bit harder - I'm biased, and I've had a lot of different items. 

My favorite thing to get there is a breakfast sandwich - especially the Garden (eggs over medium on sourdough or rye, tomato, onion, bell pepper, add avocado).  Fast becoming a Saturday tradition.  Throw in some rosemary potatoes and you're set for an afternoon of college football.  Be sure to tip the counterguys--it's hot and cramped back there, they're working fast, and they're awesome.  That is all.

I also love their vegetarian sandwiches, vegetable curry, and prepared salads (grilled corn and peaches?  don't mind if I do!). 

The soups, however, are hit and miss.  A jalapeno - butternut squash soup was light and flavorful, but a beef stew was inedible (too thin, overly greasy, and oddly flavored). 

Bonus:  The place itself.  There's not a hint of starbucks, it's not stereotypically "coffeehouse," it's not trying to be anything it's not.  It's a place that is very much about place.  What I mean is that this particular place (Darwin's) can only exist in this particular place (Cambridge).  It doesn't feel like equally cool places (Izzy's) in equally cool locations (Asheville, NC) because it's so organic to the area.  Part of the credit goes to the staff.  They're a take no bullshit crowd, but they're smart, funny, and fun.

Extra bonus:  It's a neighborhood market.  Look for craft beer, wine, cheese & crackers, fresh produce, a mind blowing array of baked goods (including gluten free), and my current obsession - Maple Valley Creamery Ice Cream.

Extra, extra bonus: the fresh Darwin's mugs.  I want one...but they're pricey!  Maybe a Christmas present to myself...

That's all for now,

the U.E.

Good

Where:  89 Greenwich Avenue, NYC

Menu:  http://goodrestaurantnyc.com/DinnerPdf.pdf

What:  Reunion dinner with some law school friends

Scene:  Restful, charming, Restoration Hardware by way of a chic flea market, surprisingly spacious for New York

Drinks:  White Heat (a delicious tequila/jalapeno concoction) and a Velvet Gingerbread (an unfortunate cough syrup doppelganger, graciously replaced by a very nice server for another White Heat)

Food:  What's in a name?  In this case, some truths and some white lies.  Overall, the starters and sides were quite good to great; the entrees, not so much.  The dinner had two superstars:  1) a baked goat cheese and tomato cazuela served with grilled sourdough bread.  The acidity and creaminess were perfectly balanced, and the mouthfeel was equal parts light and luxurious.  2) french fries.  Does this surprise you?  It surprised me, but these fries were perfection.  Not too thin, not too thick.  Some skin, but not too much.  Wonderfully salted.  Not a bit greasy.  Served plain, no sauce, the better to savor them. 

Also fine to good:  1) a side of cheddar hush puppies.  I didn't get much cheddar flavor, and they had nothing on Eastern NC hush puppies (which are the undisputed Michael Jordans of hush puppies), but they were fun, nostalgic, and yummy.  2)  Brussels sprouts.  The menu said they were roasted, but they didn't seem it to me.  They were quite soft --with none of the lovely carmelization you get from roasting -- but they were tasty nonetheless.  (A word to the wise:  they were served with an oversweet marmalade that was better avoided.)  3)  Turkey scallopine.  It was slightly too greasy, but well flavored and topped with mizuna and ricotta salata, which was inspired.

But not "Good" was the veal and pork meatballs, which were served with an overpowering pesto and rubbery gnocchi.  Compounding the muddled flavored and poor execution was the presentation - like a drain trap in a kitchen sink.  It was befuddling - vexing, even - because the presentation for the other dishes was much more thoughtful and attractive.

Bonus:  Attentive service; elbow room; light and fluffy foccacia, surprisingly affordable for New York

Overall:  Nothing groundbreaking, but comfort food in a comfortable setting:  I'm in!

Over and out,

the U.E.

Recette

Where:  328 West 12th Street, NYC

Menu:  http://recettenyc.com/dinner.htm

What:  Dinner with a girlfriend

Scene:  A tiny, working class Parisian bistro.  Dimly lit; tiny, close-together tables, bistro chairs.

Drinks:  Champagne, mais oui!  (Note, though, that the wine menu is quite pricey.)

Food:  Believe it or not, the beef carpaccio was near-transcendental.  Generally, I'm not that into the dish - it feels "done" at best, and lazy or dated at worst.  But this was something else entirely.  First, the beef was perfectly sliced.  I can't bear carpaccio that's cut too thin because it makes it seem fibrous and unpleasant.  But, if you cut it too thick then it's mushy ... and also unpleasant.  In my opinion, this was just right - about the same thickness as an inner ring of a medium-sized shallot.  The carpaccio was wrapped around a lovely ball of burrata and topped with micro-basil, watercress, and what they called a "tomato jam."  It looked like tiny caviar suspended in gel, and in my opinion, it was terribly misnamed.  I would call it the Platonic form of the perfect summer tomato.  All together, it was a flavor explosion, and wildly evocative of a dream day in the Tuscan countryside.  (Also on the plate was a porcini puree that neither added to nor detracted from the taste.)

Other strong dishes included:
- a fresh cut spaghetti topped with a lush, velvety tomato sauce, sweet shrimp, and sea urchin
-a side of fall vegetables - perfectly roasted, earthy delights

But.  But.  Other dishes just didn't work.  We tried salt cod fritters (bland, overly breaded) with a lamb ragu (cold, dry, overly chunky) and a baffling curry aioli. 

The jamon serrano was fine, but the plate was a mess - just tangled pork and a smear of mustard.  The jamon went very well with a raisin nut bread which we purloined from the cheese plate.  (We decided not to waste it on the waxy, unpleasant goat cheese and the waxy unpleasant jam it came with.) 

Most curious of all was the foie gras, which was singularly unappetizing.  I didn't know foie could be unappetizing, truly, but this plate was just a heavy, greasy mess.  The foie was unevenly seared and cut too thick, and it was served with hunks of additional grease and the most dry, inedible biscuit I've ever tasted.  It compared unfavorably with hardtack, which is saying something.

Dessert (a deconstructed s'more sundae with an unadvertised hit of jalapeno) was interesting, but ultimately fell flat.

Bonus:  The service from the busboys and second waiters.  (Our main waiter, however, alternated between indifferent, impatient, and absent.  Ugh.)

Overall:  Writing this review surprised me, because it seems that I should have enjoyed the meal more than I did.  After all, several dishes ranged from solid to divine, and I was having bubbles with une amie.  But between the service, the near misses, the flops, and the price tag, I felt like the experience fell flat.

More NYC and Boston to come,

the U.E.